May 082015
 

This will be a long repair log so if you have better to do, come back later… 🙂

Got this Konami Nemesis PCB from my friend ‘robotype’.Board was in very good condition despite its age (it’s 30 years old)

Konami_Nemesis_PCB

but bought from him as not working and infact it was just so :

no_boot

All I got was this static scambled screen.First I checked main CPU 68000, it  had random activity on DATA/ADDRESS bus) but, worst thing,  it was was burning hot to the touch!

So I decided to replace and socketed it (faulty one showed a resistance of only 65 Ohm across VCC and GND).With a new CPU fitted situation was a little improved but still some address lines were stuck LOW or HIGH.Fired up my Fluke 9010A with a 68000 POD and I could successfully test the WORK RAMs (four MB8464).So there was someting that drove the address lines.Piggybacking the 74LS244 @17L on CPU board I could descry the RAM/RAM initial check and comparing with a good one from MAME,  ‘CHARACTER RAM’, ‘VRAM 1’  and ‘VRAM 2’ were apparently reported as bad:

RAM_ROM_TEST_comparing

Probing the VRAM 1 ( TC5533 @ A15 and C15) and VRAM 2 (TC5533 @ D15) on VIDEO board revealed that their enable lines were stuck HIGH.These signals are generated by a 74LS138 @6J which I tested good with my HP10529A logic comparator then are routed to a 74LS10@16J :

enable_lines

this gave me troubles on PIN8 when compared with a good reference chip.Testing it out-of-circuit confirmed it:

74LS10@16J_failed

Replacing it cleared the VRAM 1 and 2 error but still CHARACTER RAM was reported as bad:

74LS10@16G_replaced

Character RAMs are eight 4416 DRAMs on the VIDEO board.Probing them I found that the three ones @2A, 2B and 4A had two DATA output lines stuck high while all address line were toggling properly.Once desoldered I tested them out-of-circuit and they failed miserably.Replacing them cleared the error on startup:

TMS4416s

Finally I could pass the RAM/ROM TEST and enter into the game but clearly there was more work to do on.As you can see from pictures above screen was greeenish symptom that blue color was wrong.This color is digitally generated from this part of circuit:

blue_generationst

So I probed the 74LS09 @5K with my logic comparator which gave me troubles on all its outputs.It failed once tested out-of-circuit:

74LS09@5K_testing

Colors were restored but sprites were completed missing replaced by vertical lines across the left half of the screensprites_issue

Object RAMs are sixteen 4164 and probing them revelead that three of them (@2G-2H-6H) had stuck DATA output (PIN14).They were bad tested out-of-circuit:

TMS4164

But sadly this improved sprites a little as you can see:

improved _sprites

So I went again to probe object RAMs and found that all write enable lines were stuck high!There are two WR lines and each one is shared by eight DRAM.With the help of schematics I traced them back to a 74LS244 @13G which had some stuck outputs:

object_RAMs_WR_enable_line

Piggybacking it restored sprites completely:

sprites_restored

Graphics were perfect now game has no sound and two inputs were stuck as confirmed by I/O TEST:

stuck_inputs

Looking at schematics I traced COIN1 back to a NEC PS2401 optocoupler @2H, piggy backing it cleared the fault so I replaced it.Piggybacking the one @2E for 2P SHOOT2 didn’t fix anything so fault was elsewhere .Between JAMMA edge inputs pin and PS2401 optocoupler there are some protection diodes (1S1588 type):

inputs_circuitry

Probing the one @D1 connected to the 2P SHOOT2 revelead it was almost short-circuited as it showed a forward voltage drop of few mV compared to a good one:

1S1588@D1_comparing

Replacing it and inputs were all correctly working:

inputs_fixed

Lastly : the lack of sound.Probing the digital audio circuitry I noticed that Z80 and two AY-3-8910 sound generator were missing clock and this is  generated by a 74LS367 @11G on CPU board:

Z80_AY-3-8910_clock_circuit

Comparing and testing it out-of-circuit confirmed it was bad:

74LS367@11G_testing

But still had no sound at all.So I went to probe the analog section.Diverting the input of the LA4460 amp to an external amplifier I could hear sound so I replaced it.But some music tracks were clearly missing.From MAME source: sound is generated by a Konami SCC ‘005289″ ,a two channel sound generator indeed, each channel gets its waveform from a prom (4 bits wide).Address lines A0-A4 of the prom run to the 005289, giving 32 bytes per waveform. Address lines A5-A7 of the prom run to PA5-PA7 of the AY8910 control port A, giving 8 different waveforms.PA0-PA3 of the AY8910 control volume.

Probing the two 6301 BPROMs I found that address lines A5-A7 of the one @7A were inactive and, as described in MAME, they are addressed by the control port A of a AY-3-8910.This lead me to replace the AY-3-8910 chip @7E and this fully restored the sound.Board 100% fixed!

Just a quick note : all the TTL replaced were by Fujitsu manifacturer.

 Posted by at 10:09 pm

NANAO MS9-29T chassis repair log #1

 Monitor Repair Log, Repair Logs  Comments Off on NANAO MS9-29T chassis repair log #1
Apr 222015
 

Recently I finally got my first arcade cabinet from my friend ‘robotype’;

For the uninitiated the Astro City is a compact sitdown cabinet released from Sega in the 1993.It’s by far the most popular cabinet in Japan.It mounts a wide 29″  15/24KHz monitor (Nanao MS8, some have Nanao MS9), its interface is JAMMA so widely compatible with most arcade PCBs.

After redone all the internal wiring and adapted the powering to 100V (main electricity in my country is 230V), I turned it on for the first time and I got a vertically crushed screen:

vertical_issue

First thing I done was trying to adjust the vertical size through the pot on the remote board:

remote_board_1

but I was not able since the pot was jammed.When I desoldered it, it fell off in pieces.The exact part is a 10KOhm  manifactured by ALPS quite impossible to find nowadays so I opted for a generic trimmer:

V-SIZE(1)pot

With the new pot fitted I was able to correctly stretch the image vertically:

stretched_image

But the image was not stable, sometimes it crushed to become a horizontal line so I decided to furher investigate taking apart the chassis (NANAO MS9-29T model).First thing I’ve done was checking all the capacitors in-circuit with an ESR meter and I was able to found one bad which was clearly leaking and whose ESR was out of range of my meter (0-99 Ohms) :

bad_cap

Replaced it fixed all issues.

P.S.

For those interested I compiled a capacitor list of the NANAO MS9-29T chassis.You can view it from here (or download from site)

Nanao MS9-29 Arcade Chassis Capacitor List

 Posted by at 11:11 pm
Apr 212015
 

Recently, I picked up an ‘untested’ Twin Cobra PCB off of eBay. As most of us are aware, when something is advertised as ‘untested’, 9 times out of 10 its completely broken. This Twin Cobra was no exception to this rule.

twin_cobra

 

Out of the box, the game booted up to a flat black screen, zero activity at all. When I see this on unknown condition boards, the first thing I do is give it a thorough visual inspection. I generally look for rust/corrosion, deep scrapes and gouges severing traces, physically damaged capacitors and IC’s, etc. Right off the bat, I noticed the the Koyo 28mhz crystal at X1 was hanging on by a thread! The other three had snapped off at the base of the crystal, so it was time to find a replacement. I was able to find a donor crystal in my parts boards.

 

I desoldered what was left of the original crystal, and then I installed the donor. The donor is slightly faster than the original, but it should be OK until a proper replacement arrives in the mail.

       

 

The rest of the board looked good – no gouges, no other damage so to speak. At this point when I powered it up, the game sprang to life!

twin_cobra4

 

Everything appeared to be working as expected, so I coined up and tried a game. Almost instantly, the next fault presented itself. Some (not all) of the sprite layers were incorrect. When the tanks aimed at towards 7:00, their turret would disappear completely. When larger tanks were destroyed, their remnants would take priority over my helicopter.

 

I knew something was at fault either with the ram or layer priority sections of the video board. From here, I started reading up on the mame driver, as well as the memory map for Twin Cobra posted on Toaplan.org. From what I could tell, it looks like sprite priority is controlled by the bipolar roms present on the TP-011 SUB (graphics) pcb.

 

I gave the 82S123’s a closer look, the bipolar rom marked B30-22 on the parts side of the PCB had a factory defect! There was a small solder bridge connecting pins 5 and 6. I fired up my soldering iron and removed the bridge.

twin_cobra3

 

Fired the board up, all faults were cleared! Game now works 100%. It’s mind-blowing to think that a game manufactured in 1987 has only played properly some 28 years later. This Toaplan masterpiece lives to fight another day! Until next time…

 

 

Apr 142015
 

Had this board for a while now but hadn’t looked at it.
IMAG1239

On booting the board up I got completely messed up graphics.
IMAG1238

On my pre power up visual inspection I somehow missed the damage and solder blob on the 052109 tilemap generator.
IMAG1240

I removed the solder using solder braid and straightened the legs up best I could with some fine tweezers. It took a while as I didn’t want to snap the legs off but I ended up with something I was happy with.
IMAG1255

Fixing that gave me the graphics back but there were jailbars present.
IMAG1242

Jailbars are usually a sign of a failed ROM and as the two MASKROM’s have previously been replaced for a pair of 27C400 EPROM’s I thought it was best I check these out first.
Both turned out to be fine so the next step was to check the address and data line to see if they were active.
Again I could find no problems here.

I then found the test menu which runs a self test on these ROM’s. The ROM at location 16I gave a different checksum each time I ran the test. A changing checksum can be a sign of a floating data pin. I already knew the data pins were active and that the ROM’s were good so I set to work with the multimeter checking continuity between the EPROM and the 051962 tilemap generator which these data line go to.
Eventually I found data pin 8 did not make it to the 051962.
IMAG1243

I was able to patch this underneath the EPROM so it would be hidden (and protected).
IMAG1244

On powering up all the jailbars were gone and the board is fixed.
IMAG1253

Commodore 1084S-P1 repair log (part 1)

 Monitor Repair Log, Repair Logs  Comments Off on Commodore 1084S-P1 repair log (part 1)
Apr 052015
 

This was a quick fix .

Whilst testing the stereo sound of one of my CPS2 games I noticed the monitor display went blank all of a sudden. I thought there was a problem with the RGB connector but this was not to be the case.

I wasn’t getting a signal through the RGB connector or through composite on the back. Power led was on and neck glow was present so that was a good sign.

I opened up the monitor and discharged the tube using a flat-head screwdriver, a heavy gauge wire with two alligator clips on each end is also required.

Warning: Please don’t attempt to discharge a CRT unless you know what you’re doing!

See the following video from John’s Arcade for info on safely discharging CRT monitors.

Once discharged first thing I checked were the switches on the back of the monitor which gives the 1084 its various operating modes. Switches which handle those were fine & were set correctly. I recently re-flowed the solder to the connectors on the back which are notorious for creating intermittent problems.

I then began an inspection inside of the chassis, I was looking for bad capacitors in particular. I immediately spotted 1 really bad looking electrolytic that has seen better days.

1084simage

I had a spare Panasonic/Matsushita 50v 4.7mf capacitor in my parts bin which I happily replaced the bad one with. This seems to have done the trick and my display is back again.

A few other caps are budging slightly at their tops but I don’t have the right values yet.

In the near future I am going to recap the entire chassis since it shouldn’t be too long before another one fails completely.