Jul 262014
 

I recently sold this PCB but after a week I was told the board had developed a fault.
The fault showed up as “RAM NG 10” at boot-up and there was some issues with the sprites.
IMAG0738

There is absolutely no logical meaning to the error message so using MAME I started corrupting different RAM values during it POST to see what RAM errors were flagged up during which memory writes.
Originally I couldn’t understand how the awful V30 CPU worked. Without knowing how it worked I was unable to use the MAME debugger effectively. Charles MacDonald came to my rescue and told me how the V30 addresses were set. Thanks very much to Charles.
You can see the outcome of that exercise in THIS previous post.

So now I knew for sure that the fault was with the sprite RAM. Now the next challenge, which RAM chip is the sprite RAM?
I originally tried shorting some address/data lines on RAM chips to see if any other errors were flagged but strangely it didn’t show anything else at all.
With nothing left to try I started making my own schematics up in the hope I could work out which RAM was responsible for the sprites.

Due to the complex nature of this board set, I was stuck for quite some time looking on the lower video PCB assuming (yes I know) that this is where the sprite RAM could be but was unable to find any problems at all.
Taking a step back I reversed the PAL chip XM_A-7D- into equations. Using these equations and the schematics I had drawn up I could take an educated guess as to what RAM chip was the sprite RAM.
Knowing that the sprite RAM lies at address 0xc0000, this means that address pins A19 & A18 would need to be active. Looking at the equations I could see that output pin 17 of the PAL chip would fit this address so I followed the signal which led to the /CE line of a 74LS245 of IC40 on the top CPU PCB.
xm245

The only chip that this chip goes to is a 2018 RAM chip at location IC52.
This was pretty good news. I removed the chip and it failed the tests so I replaced it and now all the POST tests pass.
The sprites are all back to how they should be too.
IMAG0733

Ill be keeping hold of this board I think. It was one of the first games I ever bought since getting into this hobby so it will stay with me for good now.

Juno First repair log #3

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Jun 262014
 

Third repair log from the batch of Juno First boards.
On power up the board was completely dead. No clocks were present on the CPU or many other IC’s.
As this is a bootleg board the available schematics do not fully apply and the clock circuit is normally handled by custom chips so this was a bit of a learning experience.
To help in dealing with this problem I started making my own schematics up.
junobl

Using a logic probe I could see that the outputs of the 74LS161 @ H14 were all HIGH. As there is no clock present to this chip it should not have counted anything at this point and they should all be LOW. This meant to the board was booting up in an incorrect state and the clock circuit was never starting.
I desoldered and replaced the offending 161 chip.
IMAG0616

The clocks were now all present but I just got a static blue screen and the watchdog was constantly resetting the system.
Using my in circuit Arduino tester I knew the ROMs could all be read correctly by the CPU. I also knew all the program RAMs were fine.
Replacing the 6809 CPU allowed the game to boot properly.

Next problem was the sound or lack of it.
The sound CPU is a good old Z80 so I fitted the Fluke and did a ROM check. This reported back an incorrect signature and when I removed the ROM I see this
IMAG0618

The VCC pin was missing. I soldered a new pin onto this and this board is fully fixed.

The last bootleg board has been a major pain and at this point in time I have admitted defeat with it. I have also been harvesting parts from it to fix the others so it will be written off.

Juno First repair log #2

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Jun 152014
 

So here is the second repair log.
Pretty simple this one but I never took any pictures of the actual fault so Ive taken a snapshot of the event in MAME to show it.

The game plays as normal but when the blue ball enemies spawn into the game the froze up on screen and did nothing as circled in red in the picture below.
juno2

On my visual inspection I noticed a 1K pull up resistor array next to the bank of 4116 RAM chips what cracked in half.
juno2-1

Replacing this fixed the fault.

I did initially think there was another fault as the ship movement in attract mode seemed a bit strange but after checking in MAME this is a characteristic of the non Gottlieb version. In the Gottlieb version this behavior is not present.

Jun 062014
 

This is hopefully one of five Juno First repair logs.
Thanks (I think) to muddymusic I have a stack of these needing repaired. There are two originals and three bootlegs altogether and decided to make a start on the originals first.

This one booted to an unsynced red picture.

Looking at the schematics I could see that the sync is generated by custom chip 082 at location EF13 on the bottom PCB.
Swapping this chip with the one from the other board set brought the sync back. That’s bad news for original board set #2.

So now I just had a red screen with nothing going on.
It was at this point that I learned this hardware uses a custom 6809 CPU known as Konami-1. I was originally going to try and borrow a 6809 pod for the Fluke but that put a swift end it that idea.
Now’s the perfect time to use my beloved Arduino again.
By hooking it up to the address, data, RW, BA and BS lines I wrote a program that would read the program ROM’s back and display the data as well as a bitsum for the ROM.
It worked really well and found my second issue.

This is the original HEX file

and here is what I was actually reading on the board

You can see that bits 0 and 1 are always on.

So the 74LS245 at location D7 on the lower PCB had a two stuck pins on D0 and D1.

Replacing this enabled me to read all the program ROM’s correctly.
I had at this point wanted to be able to test RAM too but due to the timings required and not knowing how those custom chips worked I left it alone.

So now I have a booting game but all the sprites and title screen graphics are missing.

First thing I did was see if I could replicate the fault in MAME.
By creating empty files to replace ROM’s 7C, 7D and 7E on the top PCB I got the exact fault.

Checking those EPROM’s with the probe revealed that none of the chips were ever being enabled.
Following the schematics back to where the ROM selection lines are generated I came to a 74LS273 at location 6D on the upper PCB. Pin 11 is the clock pin for this chip and I would expect it to be pulsing but it was stuck HIGH. Following the /SSEL line back to the lower PCB led me to a 74LS138 at location I6.

This had pulsing inputs but either stuck HIGH outputs or floating pins. Replacing this chip gave me the graphics back.

That’s one down.

Silent Scope repair log

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Jul 112011
 

Bought a Silent Scope PCB recently.
It had the “Hardware Error 11P” fault which is known to be cause by the battery failing in the TimeKeeper RAM.
Since the contents of these RAMs are in MAME I thought id fix one up which was probably a stupid idea as I dont have the setup to actually use it, but at least I know I can fix these now.

To get this thing booted up I modified my ATX power supply that I had previously modded to run my NAOMI setup. The power connection are labelled in the picture.

I had to run the VGA output through a standards converter too, it must be 31kHz. Once it was all fired up I was greeted to the startup procedure which consists of what look like RAM/ROM checks. All these passed but then it just hangs on the fault screen for a bit then resets.


The TimeKeeper RAM is located on the top board of a 3 board stack.

I removed the board and set to work desoldering the old RAM chip. It went smoothly considering it had the signature Konami thin traces and small through holes, the RAM just dropped out.

Thought it best to fit a socket in case of any problems with it in the future.
As this version shows up as v1.20, the RAM dump needed if from set UAB.
I did try reprogramming the original but it didn’t hold the data.
After fitting the new RAM the game booted to the test menu.


After working my way through the menus using the pins on the I/O board I was able to finally fire the game up.


So, I have verified that the sound works, the game boots and the digital inputs are working. I have no reason to believe that the rifle wouldn’t work if connected.

UPDATE (06/07/2015):
If you have an Arduino and fancy testing out my Timekeeper programmer ‘sketch’ then you can download it from the Downloads section.
It worked for me but I make no promises it will work for you. Its a basic proof of concept and could do with being developed.