Corrado Tomaselli

No background in electronics. Learned everything by reading pdf books and expecially Video game logic Vol 1 by Atari and in general early Atari and Williams arcade manuals

Mustache Boy repair log

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Jan 312016
 

I got this pcb togheter with other games all untested as part of a very cheap deal

When I fired it up, I noticed that it worked except sound.

This  game has a rare Toshiba sound cpu T5182 which is an embedded z80 with ram and rom inside the same package.

One trick to know if the problem lies in the sound cpu  is to coin the game.  If it works, than the cpu, which also handles the coin inputs,  is fine.

That was the case with my pcb, so given that I could hear noise from the speakers, I troubleshooted the pre amps with my portable amplifier.

There are two op amps, one is a 4558 directly connected to the Ym3016 DAC, and the other is connected to the 4558, which is an LM324.

The latter had all the outputs dead, so exchanging it with a good one restored the sounds.

Foto 30-01-16 09 35 24

Bosconian repair log #1

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Dec 282015
 

I got this original namco untested pcb as a part of a deal.

As always happens, untested =not working and infact upon booting up it was totally dead with only a fixed static screen.

I was not too worried because I had a Dig Dug by Sidam which I use for spare parts and there are also schematics available (by Midway).

So I began my troubleshooting.

I checked the clock on the 3x z80s and it was missing.

Traced back to a dead output of a 74128@6B. The input coming from custom 07xx was OK.

clock

I started to search for a replacement and I took my Dig Dug pcb but in place of the 74128 there was a socketed 7402.

Bad luck, someone put wrong TTL as a place holder….

I then discovered that this 74128 is not common at all and it is used only on early namco pcbs.

I decided to contact my friend Charles Mcdonald to have a suggestion how to make the pcb boot just at least to see if it hadn’t other faults.

He told me that this 74128 is a really weird choice because it is used to drive signals over long distances and a 7402 is the equivalent to drive lower mA,  but I had to disconnect the R5 100ohm resistance.

In the end the guys at SIDAM made this “modification” on purpose to the original Namco design!

So I fixed the clock problem installing a 7402 and lifting provvisorily the resistance.

Foto 26-12-15 12 20 49

After booting up, unfortunately the game had another issue:

Foto 21-12-15 23 21 28

Foto 21-12-15 23 21 32

Foto 21-12-15 23 21 52

 

After some studying of the pcb schematics and some short circuiting I discovered that beneath these stripes there was the black background with the

stars correctly generated by the custom.

Worth of note is the score part of the display that was good.

On the video pcb there were 4x 4kx1bit rams 2147 which I didn’t have as spares (Dig Dug uses another video board) , two of them were running very hot .

Tested with the logic probe they were pulsing correctly.

At this time it was clear that the problem came from around there because shorting some pins changed the coloured stripes.

Disabling the CS line of the rams, restored good backdrop, stars and enemies but your ship and missiles disappeared.

So it was clear that these stripes where the “scattered” colours which should have been combined to make the ship correctly coloured.

I decided to test with the logic comparator the 74174@7D which is mixing the bits from the rams : it reported some bad pins.

 

mixing

When I changed it I got no better results, but I got another positive feedback that the problems came from the circuit near the rams.

If I left out completely the chip from the socket I got good backdround and no ship.

The enemies and bases are part of the background circuit.

All the TTL which were used to address the rams were good so it was clear that some or all the 4x 2147 rams were bad.

At this time I decided to give up and to order some new rams in the hope that the problem was really there.

Just before placing the order I decided to take another look at the 2148 ram @4J which on my pcb was not placed and I thought of a schematic mistake.

rams

 

Now everything was clear : Namco prepared already the pcb to accept one 2148 ram which is 1k x 4bit instead of 4x 2147 rams, 4 k x 1bit !

The highest addr lines are not used so it can really be used as a replacement!

I had a lot of 2148 rams so I immediately desoldered all 4x 2147 rams and placed @4J the 2148 ram

Foto 26-12-15 11 50 24

 

Foto 26-12-15 12 16 02

 

Finger crossed and when the game booted up I was finally welcomed with correct colours!

Foto 26-12-15 12 15 34

Haunted Castle repair log #2

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Dec 282015
 

Got this pcb from a friend of mine for a repair

haunted

The pcb had already all the sram chips repaired and some flying wires underneath because of broken traces.

Upon boot up, it constantly reset with this message:

haunted1

First thing was to test the socketed sram chip 6264 near the 2 big customs but as expected they were good.

Tried to flex the pcb and it booted with wrong palette sometimes

haunted2

Surprisingly once it booted it could be played with wrong palette all the time until the next boot.

So the code did only a check at the beginning.

After pressing and flexing everywere I found out that the game booted only when I pressed the Hybrid module 007327

I discovered looking underneath that the module has some small srams and looking at the schematics this is confirmed.

haunted_007327

I turned out that one pin had a subtle loose contact. I reflown brutally everything to make it more resistant against shocks.

haunted3

Booted the game and I was welcomed to a perfectly working game

haunted4

 

haunted5

Lethal Enforcers 2 repair log

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Sep 032015
 

Got this board as fully working

Foto 30-08-15 09 30 31

I immediately noticed some problems on the sprites

 

Foto 31-08-15 18 15 10

Transparent objects and shadows were solid and some sprites had glitches

Konami maskroms are known to be unreliable so I ran immediately the maskrom test reveling that rom @25g was faulty.

Foto 31-08-15 18 18 23

 

Before desoldering I checked also the custom underneath which sometims has pins lifted but it was good.

Upon a close inspection I saw some rust on 3 pins of the maskrom @25g which in my opinion could be the reason of the fault

Foto 31-08-15 18 10 14

 

Therefore I decided to desolder it and resolder a 27c160 programmed with the correct file

 

 

Foto 03-09-15 22 48 03

 

 

Board 100% fixed

Real Break – Billiard Accademy repair log

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Aug 302015
 

Bought this board as fully working for 30 euros but turned out it had a problem on the audio.

Foto 30-08-15 09 26 59

All the music and sound effects were totally disturbed and garbled.

The TA8201AK amplifier was becoming so hot that you could smell it burning.

The pcb has a lot of smd capacitors that are reknown to be unreliable but I noticed that two of them were already changed with normal ones.

I was sure that it was the amplifier shorted internally because in some occasions my 2A fuse was blown so I bought from ebay a cheap one for 4 euros.

Foto 30-08-15 09 27 34

On the left side the original one dated 1997, on the right the one bought on ebay, dated 1991 😉

After soldering the new one, the problem remained.

This time I decided to go for more professional approach and downloaded the datasheet and checked all the caps and resistances according to the sample circuit.

To make a long story short, the two tiny caps (C28 and C29, one for the sound sfx and one for the music) connected to the input of the amp were somewhat faulty and leaking under the body.

Foto 30-08-15 10 46 45

After desoldering both of them , I noticed they were1nF each and not compliant to the suggested one of the datasheet which should be 4,7uF.

I decided to install only one cap of 4,7uF and shorted the resistances R55 and R74 to mix the sounds before the cap.

This solved completely the issues and got very clean sound with the amplifier running with a reasonable temperature.