Vanguard repair log

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Feb 242018
 

Bought this classic as not tested but luckily it was working except the missile sound was completely missing.

Looking at the schematics I found this

 

 

In the game there are only two missile sounds.

Shot A is your ship missile sound, while Shot B is the one from some enemies

IC37 is an LM3900 op amp which is very unreliable and infact after changing it , the missile sound was restored

Labyrinth Runner repair log

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Feb 242018
 

The game was working good except the sprites were all missing some lines

 

The board is using some unreliable drams 41464 from Fujitsu similar to the ones used on Konami Haunted Castle or CPS1 A board.

I bought some units from Aliexpress , put some handmade socktes and changed both to be 100% sure

Turned out only one of the two was faulty, in anycase the graphics were 100% fixed

Joust repair log

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Feb 242018
 

I bought a Joust boardset declared 100% working.

When I tested it  all the coin inputs didn’t work

I ran the test and infact they were all activated

I was not worried because  I was sure it was the 6821P PIA on the romboard.

After replacing it didn’t fix the problem.

Looking at the schematic there are also some 4066 CMOS chips involved.

I desoldered the one used by the three coins inputs and after testing it on my programmer it was declared good.

I decided to add a socket and test another one on board

Luckily the problem was fixed and it turns  out my programmer is not reliable in testing CMOS devices.

Nastar repair log

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Feb 232018
 

Found this Nastar (on Taito B System hardware) in a lot of faulty PCBs I recently bought:

Board played fine but sound was terribly loud and corrupted :

I fired up my audio probe and started “listening” to various points of the sound circuit.Hardware uses an YM3016 DAC (SOP package, always used in conjunction with the YM2610 sound synthesis IC) 

 

As you can see from the above pinout, its pin 13 (TO BUFF) is the analog output that goes to the pre-amplification circuit (two TL074 OP-AMPs used on this board).”Listening” to this pin confirmed me that sound came out bad from the DAC :

I took a spare from a Football Champ donor board:

Installing it restored a crystal clear sound.End of job.

 Posted by at 12:06 pm
Feb 202018
 

Hi everyone, I’ve been a long time follower of jammarcade.net for several years and I’ve received a lot of help and advice from both Porchy and Caius. A big thank you to you guys! 🙂

Caius then approached me and asked if I wanted to contribute with my own repair logs of the games that I have resurrected from the dead and I thought that would be fun 🙂

So for my first post I thought i would document the repair of a Irem Battle Chopper. Pretty obscure and rare game that is hard nails, as always when it comes to Irem games.

The PCB was in pretty good condition but was missing some color. It displayed mostly blue graphics and faint red and green.

Having worked on M72 hardware before, I knew that color output was handled on the middle board in the PCB stack.

I started with measuring the RGB signals on the JAMMA edge with my oscilloscope, I could verify that the signal of R and G were absent.

Having access to the R-type schematics, I checked where the RGB signals came before it arrived at the JAMMA edge.

 

As you can see it derives from the custom KNA91H014. Bad news I thought, but when checking the outputs with the oscilloscope, all the outputs looked fine. So I then started measuring the resistance of the resistor networks (RA13, RA14 and RA15) and they also checked out ok.

Everything in that areo seemed to be ok, so I started to look more into the schematics and found this on the same page as the snippet above

When checking the outputs of this 74LS38 at location IC67 with my logic probe, I could see that red and green were floating. And I could also verify that they were both shorted to ground.

I then desoldered the 74LS38 and could then verify it as bad in my TTL tester

These 74LS38’s aren’t that very commonly used on arcade pcbs, at least in my experience, so I needed to wait for a replacement to arrive. In the meantime I added a socket on the PCB for easier access for the future.

With the replacement in place, I booted up the game and lo and behold, all colors are back 🙂

A good and rare game back in its full glory.