May 082015
 

This will be a long repair log so if you have better to do, come back later… 🙂

Got this Konami Nemesis PCB from my friend ‘robotype’.Board was in very good condition despite its age (it’s 30 years old)

Konami_Nemesis_PCB

but bought from him as not working and infact it was just so :

no_boot

All I got was this static scambled screen.First I checked main CPU 68000, it  had random activity on DATA/ADDRESS bus) but, worst thing,  it was was burning hot to the touch!

So I decided to replace and socketed it (faulty one showed a resistance of only 65 Ohm across VCC and GND).With a new CPU fitted situation was a little improved but still some address lines were stuck LOW or HIGH.Fired up my Fluke 9010A with a 68000 POD and I could successfully test the WORK RAMs (four MB8464).So there was someting that drove the address lines.Piggybacking the 74LS244 @17L on CPU board I could descry the RAM/RAM initial check and comparing with a good one from MAME,  ‘CHARACTER RAM’, ‘VRAM 1’  and ‘VRAM 2’ were apparently reported as bad:

RAM_ROM_TEST_comparing

Probing the VRAM 1 ( TC5533 @ A15 and C15) and VRAM 2 (TC5533 @ D15) on VIDEO board revealed that their enable lines were stuck HIGH.These signals are generated by a 74LS138 @6J which I tested good with my HP10529A logic comparator then are routed to a 74LS10@16J :

enable_lines

this gave me troubles on PIN8 when compared with a good reference chip.Testing it out-of-circuit confirmed it:

74LS10@16J_failed

Replacing it cleared the VRAM 1 and 2 error but still CHARACTER RAM was reported as bad:

74LS10@16G_replaced

Character RAMs are eight 4416 DRAMs on the VIDEO board.Probing them I found that the three ones @2A, 2B and 4A had two DATA output lines stuck high while all address line were toggling properly.Once desoldered I tested them out-of-circuit and they failed miserably.Replacing them cleared the error on startup:

TMS4416s

Finally I could pass the RAM/ROM TEST and enter into the game but clearly there was more work to do on.As you can see from pictures above screen was greeenish symptom that blue color was wrong.This color is digitally generated from this part of circuit:

blue_generationst

So I probed the 74LS09 @5K with my logic comparator which gave me troubles on all its outputs.It failed once tested out-of-circuit:

74LS09@5K_testing

Colors were restored but sprites were completed missing replaced by vertical lines across the left half of the screensprites_issue

Object RAMs are sixteen 4164 and probing them revelead that three of them (@2G-2H-6H) had stuck DATA output (PIN14).They were bad tested out-of-circuit:

TMS4164

But sadly this improved sprites a little as you can see:

improved _sprites

So I went again to probe object RAMs and found that all write enable lines were stuck high!There are two WR lines and each one is shared by eight DRAM.With the help of schematics I traced them back to a 74LS244 @13G which had some stuck outputs:

object_RAMs_WR_enable_line

Piggybacking it restored sprites completely:

sprites_restored

Graphics were perfect now game has no sound and two inputs were stuck as confirmed by I/O TEST:

stuck_inputs

Looking at schematics I traced COIN1 back to a NEC PS2401 optocoupler @2H, piggy backing it cleared the fault so I replaced it.Piggybacking the one @2E for 2P SHOOT2 didn’t fix anything so fault was elsewhere .Between JAMMA edge inputs pin and PS2401 optocoupler there are some protection diodes (1S1588 type):

inputs_circuitry

Probing the one @D1 connected to the 2P SHOOT2 revelead it was almost short-circuited as it showed a forward voltage drop of few mV compared to a good one:

1S1588@D1_comparing

Replacing it and inputs were all correctly working:

inputs_fixed

Lastly : the lack of sound.Probing the digital audio circuitry I noticed that Z80 and two AY-3-8910 sound generator were missing clock and this is  generated by a 74LS367 @11G on CPU board:

Z80_AY-3-8910_clock_circuit

Comparing and testing it out-of-circuit confirmed it was bad:

74LS367@11G_testing

But still had no sound at all.So I went to probe the analog section.Diverting the input of the LA4460 amp to an external amplifier I could hear sound so I replaced it.But some music tracks were clearly missing.From MAME source: sound is generated by a Konami SCC ‘005289″ ,a two channel sound generator indeed, each channel gets its waveform from a prom (4 bits wide).Address lines A0-A4 of the prom run to the 005289, giving 32 bytes per waveform. Address lines A5-A7 of the prom run to PA5-PA7 of the AY8910 control port A, giving 8 different waveforms.PA0-PA3 of the AY8910 control volume.

Probing the two 6301 BPROMs I found that address lines A5-A7 of the one @7A were inactive and, as described in MAME, they are addressed by the control port A of a AY-3-8910.This lead me to replace the AY-3-8910 chip @7E and this fully restored the sound.Board 100% fixed!

Just a quick note : all the TTL replaced were by Fujitsu manifacturer.

 Posted by at 10:09 pm
May 032015
 

Do you have an oscilloscope and you never use it?Don’t sell it, now I will explain how to turn it into a simple but effective component tester.

The name “Octopus” maybe doesn’t say anything alone but if you google it along the words “curve tracer” you will obtain thousands of result.In few words an “Octopus” curve tracer is a small circuit that used in conjunction with a scope allows to display  the voltage across a component under test on horizontal (X) axis versus the current through that component on the vertical (Y) axis.A scope set to X-Y mode is required (most of them have this feature).

There are lot of variants of “Octopus” circuit, personally I choose this one:

since it applies small voltage (less than 1VAC) and current (less than 1mA) allowing to test unpowered components also in circuit without risk of damaging them.

As you can from picture above circuit is made of very few common parts : there is a transformer 120VAC to 6.3VAC ( I’m in Europe so I used a 220VAC one), three resistors (the 560 Ohm and 100 Ohm ones forms a voltage divider to obtain 1VAC , then the 1KOhm one limits current to 1mA) and two probes.

This   circuit will produce a “signature” waveform on the oscilloscope to aid in the testing and analysis of shorts, opens, and leakage in just about any electronic component including resistors, capacitors, inductors, diodes,transistors and digital ICs too.Each component has a characteristic waveform (called “Lissajous” pattern), some examples:

Now, you will wondering what this device has to do with arcade?Well, personally I find it very uself  when I probe ICs out of circuit.For example, in my last repair I was unsure if a 74LS367 was good or not since I got discordant results from my testers.Probing it with the curve tracer and comparing its patterns with the ones of a good known IC removed all doubts:

74LS367_comparing

On the right the pattern generated from a good IC (74LS367), on the left the one from the defective one.Specifically you can see how the junction (internally a TTL contains transistors) of an output (PIN9) is weakened compared to the good one (pattern doesn’t have the healthy ‘L’ shape of a good diode/base to collector junction)

Obviously this curve tracer can be used also to test components in-circuit (thanks to the low voltage/current applied) but in this case experience is needed as components can interact each other producing misleading results.The best option would be having a good board as reference.

If you want to read more about, I recommend you this document:

https://www.qsl.net/kd7rem/pdf/octopus.pdf

So, what are you waiting for?Go and build your “Octopus”! 🙂

 Posted by at 11:36 pm
Apr 252015
 

Ive been looking for a cheap small voltage display for a project I’m working on and I turned to eBay to try a few of the cheap ones out.
I dont need anything spot of accurate but an indication of what I’m supplying.

My search led me to this one

It looks small and it was certainly cheap enough at 99p delivered.
It arrived today and it doesn’t look too bad.

I hooked it up to my power supply to check its accuracy and usefulness.
The description claims this thing can display from 2.5v – 30v so lets test those claims out.
NOTE: I really struggled getting a clear shot of the display with the useless HTC One camera and the fluorescent lights but you can make it out.

With the PSU set at 2.5v we get this:

Not bad at all. What happens when we go lower? Well I got to 2.489v and the display starts flickering like mad.

At the lower voltage of 2.5v the display is a bit dim. Perfectly readable but dim.

Next, 3.3v

And 5v

I did a bit of extra testing around the 5v area mainly as this is the voltage I’m going to be operating it at.
I tested at 5.2v

And to check the accuracy I checked it at 5.125v and 5.126v.

I’m happy with that even if I don’t need the accuracy too much.
Next up I tested 12v

20v

Finally I just tested its claimed maximum of 30v

The display gets a lot brighter at this voltage.
This unit I got didn’t need any adjustment but there is a small pot on the back to adjust it if required.

Its certainly not the best in terms of build quality but for my specific needs I’m quite happy with this really.

 Posted by at 11:52 am

NANAO MS9-29T chassis repair log #1

 Monitor Repair Log, Repair Logs  Comments Off on NANAO MS9-29T chassis repair log #1
Apr 222015
 

Recently I finally got my first arcade cabinet from my friend ‘robotype’;

For the uninitiated the Astro City is a compact sitdown cabinet released from Sega in the 1993.It’s by far the most popular cabinet in Japan.It mounts a wide 29″  15/24KHz monitor (Nanao MS8, some have Nanao MS9), its interface is JAMMA so widely compatible with most arcade PCBs.

After redone all the internal wiring and adapted the powering to 100V (main electricity in my country is 230V), I turned it on for the first time and I got a vertically crushed screen:

vertical_issue

First thing I done was trying to adjust the vertical size through the pot on the remote board:

remote_board_1

but I was not able since the pot was jammed.When I desoldered it, it fell off in pieces.The exact part is a 10KOhm  manifactured by ALPS quite impossible to find nowadays so I opted for a generic trimmer:

V-SIZE(1)pot

With the new pot fitted I was able to correctly stretch the image vertically:

stretched_image

But the image was not stable, sometimes it crushed to become a horizontal line so I decided to furher investigate taking apart the chassis (NANAO MS9-29T model).First thing I’ve done was checking all the capacitors in-circuit with an ESR meter and I was able to found one bad which was clearly leaking and whose ESR was out of range of my meter (0-99 Ohms) :

bad_cap

Replaced it fixed all issues.

P.S.

For those interested I compiled a capacitor list of the NANAO MS9-29T chassis.You can view it from here (or download from site)

Nanao MS9-29 Arcade Chassis Capacitor List

 Posted by at 11:11 pm