Konami GT repair log

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Jul 232014
 

A friend of mine sent me this really mint original Konami GT PCB saying it suffered from vertical stripes across most part of screen.

Konami_GT

 

Fired up the board and …he was right 🙂

Konami_GT_isue

 

Initial test said all RAMs were good so the problem was elsewhere.Without any schematics I started my visual inspection as usual.I noticed that the only IC replaced on this mint PCB was a 74LS157 @H13.Since a socket was installed, I removed this IC and all the part of graphics affected by stripes disappeared so I started to think problem was generated after this part of circuit.In particular I traced an output (pin 7) of this 74LS157 to pin 4 (RAS) of some TMM4164 DRAMs (there are 16 of them).Probing these DRAMs with my logic probe revelaed that on four of them pin 2 (DATA IN) was pulsing but the pin 14 (DATA OUT) was stuck high.So I desoldered (they were @G2, G3, H4, H5 position)  and test them in my Hi-Lo Systems ALL-07A programmer and the result was this:

TMM4164_testing

They all failed miserably.I was lucky since had  some good  4164 DRAMs taken from a scrap PCB in order to repair a Commodore 64 motherboard.Installed them and goodbye stripes for ever!Board 100% fixed.

Konami_GT_fixed

 Posted by at 10:18 pm

Juno First repair log #3

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Jun 262014
 

Third repair log from the batch of Juno First boards.
On power up the board was completely dead. No clocks were present on the CPU or many other IC’s.
As this is a bootleg board the available schematics do not fully apply and the clock circuit is normally handled by custom chips so this was a bit of a learning experience.
To help in dealing with this problem I started making my own schematics up.
junobl

Using a logic probe I could see that the outputs of the 74LS161 @ H14 were all HIGH. As there is no clock present to this chip it should not have counted anything at this point and they should all be LOW. This meant to the board was booting up in an incorrect state and the clock circuit was never starting.
I desoldered and replaced the offending 161 chip.
IMAG0616

The clocks were now all present but I just got a static blue screen and the watchdog was constantly resetting the system.
Using my in circuit Arduino tester I knew the ROMs could all be read correctly by the CPU. I also knew all the program RAMs were fine.
Replacing the 6809 CPU allowed the game to boot properly.

Next problem was the sound or lack of it.
The sound CPU is a good old Z80 so I fitted the Fluke and did a ROM check. This reported back an incorrect signature and when I removed the ROM I see this
IMAG0618

The VCC pin was missing. I soldered a new pin onto this and this board is fully fixed.

The last bootleg board has been a major pain and at this point in time I have admitted defeat with it. I have also been harvesting parts from it to fix the others so it will be written off.

Juno First repair log #2

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Jun 152014
 

So here is the second repair log.
Pretty simple this one but I never took any pictures of the actual fault so Ive taken a snapshot of the event in MAME to show it.

The game plays as normal but when the blue ball enemies spawn into the game the froze up on screen and did nothing as circled in red in the picture below.
juno2

On my visual inspection I noticed a 1K pull up resistor array next to the bank of 4116 RAM chips what cracked in half.
juno2-1

Replacing this fixed the fault.

I did initially think there was another fault as the ship movement in attract mode seemed a bit strange but after checking in MAME this is a characteristic of the non Gottlieb version. In the Gottlieb version this behavior is not present.

Jun 062014
 

This is hopefully one of five Juno First repair logs.
Thanks (I think) to muddymusic I have a stack of these needing repaired. There are two originals and three bootlegs altogether and decided to make a start on the originals first.

This one booted to an unsynced red picture.

Looking at the schematics I could see that the sync is generated by custom chip 082 at location EF13 on the bottom PCB.
Swapping this chip with the one from the other board set brought the sync back. That’s bad news for original board set #2.

So now I just had a red screen with nothing going on.
It was at this point that I learned this hardware uses a custom 6809 CPU known as Konami-1. I was originally going to try and borrow a 6809 pod for the Fluke but that put a swift end it that idea.
Now’s the perfect time to use my beloved Arduino again.
By hooking it up to the address, data, RW, BA and BS lines I wrote a program that would read the program ROM’s back and display the data as well as a bitsum for the ROM.
It worked really well and found my second issue.

This is the original HEX file

and here is what I was actually reading on the board

You can see that bits 0 and 1 are always on.

So the 74LS245 at location D7 on the lower PCB had a two stuck pins on D0 and D1.

Replacing this enabled me to read all the program ROM’s correctly.
I had at this point wanted to be able to test RAM too but due to the timings required and not knowing how those custom chips worked I left it alone.

So now I have a booting game but all the sprites and title screen graphics are missing.

First thing I did was see if I could replicate the fault in MAME.
By creating empty files to replace ROM’s 7C, 7D and 7E on the top PCB I got the exact fault.

Checking those EPROM’s with the probe revealed that none of the chips were ever being enabled.
Following the schematics back to where the ROM selection lines are generated I came to a 74LS273 at location 6D on the upper PCB. Pin 11 is the clock pin for this chip and I would expect it to be pulsing but it was stuck HIGH. Following the /SSEL line back to the lower PCB led me to a 74LS138 at location I6.

This had pulsing inputs but either stuck HIGH outputs or floating pins. Replacing this chip gave me the graphics back.

That’s one down.

Bucky O’ Hare repair log #1

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May 062014
 

Got this original Konami Bucky O’ Hare PCB for quite some time but I never looked at:

100_5295

Once powered on it displayed good graphics but loud, scratchy and distorted sound.Everyone in the arcade world knows that this kind of PCB use an hybrid custom sound module, in this case it’s the  one marked ‘054986A’ (other games like X-Men use the ‘054544’ one) which is famous to go bad (in particular its SMD electrolytic capacitors will leak sooner or later damaging tracks).Well, with these premises, I decided to do a full recap of the module following this chart:

https://jammarcade.net/images/2024/05/KONAMI_HSC.pdf

I opted for a different solution.I used tantalum SMT tantalum capacitors instead of electrolytic through hole or SMD ones.Why will you say?Because tantalum capacitors are extremely reliable, they don’t suffer from leakage and have a lower ESR.Last but not the least, they are also more elegant than electrolytic one like you can see in this comparison at the end of my recap/repaint job :

054986A_combined

Anyway once powered on again the board I got same sound issues.I know this custom module has additional circuitry also on the underneath.So, I was force to desolder again the module but this time I socketed it using a 64 pin SDIP (shrink DIP) socket divided in two stripes for an easy future maintenance:

S-DIP_socket_combined

After desoldering it, I found this scenario:

100_5291

In particular there is a QFP Konami ASIC marked ‘054321’ (probably a MCU which controls the entire sound system, infact if you run the PCB without it the RAM/ROM test will show error on all related sound components -RAM, ROM, 74LS245 and ASIC ‘054539’).Besides there are also a JRC4558 OP-AMP (LM358 compatible) and a AD1868R (Dual 18-Bit Audio DAC), all in SMD package.

Judging from the issue  I started to suspect about the 4558 OP-AMP.So, I borrowed one from a faulty PCB. After a quick soldering  I turned on the PCB again and..the sound was back, crystal clear as it should be.Mission accomplished.

 Posted by at 8:03 pm