Received from USA this Wonder Boy PCB for repair, actually the board was a factory conversion on Sega System 1A hardware:
When powered it up I got most of times a steady black screen, rarely an ‘ERROR ROM 4’ message:
I fired up my Fluke 9010A to perform a ROM test.On some devices sometimes a valid signature was returned but more often I got error and a different signature :
There are six program ROMs:
When I dumped them my programmer complained about some bad contact:
It turned out legs of some EPROMs were dirty and oxidized.After polished them the board booted up but clearly a color was missing (the RED one) and GFX faults were present :
Doing a visual inspection I found a couple of broken 1K bussed resistor networks :
After checked connections I figured out they were used as resistor ladder in the palette circuit.I replaced them, this restored the three RGB colors and showed better the grahics faults:
Backgrounds had wrong colors and some sprites (like main character) had missing parts and vertical lines through.As for first issue I went back to the color circuit where @IC151 lies a TMM2016 (8K x 8-bit) static RAM (whose data bits are routed to some 74LS175 flip-flop and finally converted to analog by the above mentioned resistor ladders)
Probing it revealed a unhealthy signal on an address line (A10 , pin 19), here’s a comparison with a good signal on the left:
Sure enough I removed the RAM :
Device failed the out-of-circuit testing:
Now the sprites issue.Relevant data is stored in four 27128 EPROMs installed on a small piggyback board:
Devices were dumped as good.After a quick check with my multimeter I found a missing connection between a data line of a ROM and the header which goes into the sockets :
I restored the connection and this fixed board completely.Another repair accomplished.
PCB Repair LogsComments Off on Michael Jackson’s MoonWalker repair log #3
May052018
Received from UK this Michael Jackson’s MoonWalker PCB (Sega System 18 hardware)
Board gave a steady black screen on power up, no sign of activity on main CPU busses.I transfered on a same board of mine the FD1094 module along with the 8751 MCU and they worked fine.I used my ROM board but still no boot so I came to the conclusion that fault was located on motherboard.Looking for WORK RAMs and I found them :
Two Toshiba TC5563 (8K x 8-bit static RAMs) which means high unreliability and chance of failure.I piggybacked a good chip on the one @IC5 and board booted into game:
RAM obvioulsy failed when tested out-of-circuit:
As said board booted up now but most of the sprites were wrong:
Relevant data is stored into eight 2Mbit devices (mostly MASK ROMs) located on ROM board:
I dumped them and they all matched the MAME set except the one @B11 :
Opening the dump in an HEX editor revealed it was empty:
So device was bad.I burned a 27C020 EPROM with MAME dump, this restored the correct sprites and fixed board completely.Job done.
Recently I was sent a TNX1 Sky Skipper PCB for repair from my friend, Whitney.
It had developed a sprite fault which looked like this
As you can see in some places the sprites look fine but as it scrolls they start to disappear and flash etc.
I had already done quite a bit of work with these PCB’s and the regular Popeye PCB too so was fairly familiar with the whole setup.
I knew the main RAM also held the sprite data too which the DMA circuit then pushed out to sprite RAM during VBLANK.
With this in mind I was sure the main RAM was OK and enabling the test mode also backed this up.
I checked most of the DMA circuit out which is mainly just counters and they all seemed fine too..
I moved onto the RAM PCB next. I could rule out the 82S09 SRAM chips straight away as they are all socketed and I have spares.
The 5501 sprite buffer RAM was a little more difficult to check. While I was probing about these RAM’s with the scope I found the voltage wasnt stable and fluctuated every few seconds a little and also there was a big volt drop compared to the output of the PSU.
I confirmed that with this RAM PCB unplugged that the volt drop went away as did the fluctuation of voltage.
I hooked up this PCB to my bench PSU on its own and monitored the current draw and voltage. I later pinpointed these issues to the RAM that I had swapped in to test. They were older ceramic types and clearly they were drawing a lot more current than the original. Swapping them back cleared this issue but obviously was not going to solve my problem.
Moving on the whats seems to be getting called the “timing” PCB I started probing the counters and found a 74LS161 which had weak looking outputs.
*note this picture was taken after being changed hence its in a socket
I piggybacked a new 161 on top but with the output legs bent out so as not to make connection then probed again.
I didn’t really think it would clear the problem but as there was such a difference I swapped it out anyway
After checking the game I had this
Game is all fixed.
Going to do some minor servicing on this and then send it on its way home.
I got a dead World Rally 2 which upon boot showed garbage but I could hear that the monitor was hissing, meaning that there was no proper sync.
I immediately checked the two OSC on board and found the main one, 26mhz which is driving the 68k and pixel clock dead.
The 26mhz is not very common but I managed to found it on another Gaelco board and replaced it.
Game still didn’t start and was out of sync, but the 26mhz signal now was present
Near the OSC there is a 74ls74@IC29Â which divide by 2 the clock for the 68k which runs at 13mhz.
The output of the flip flops was completely dead.
Replacing it I got this time a black screen with no activity.
First thing I did without much hope was to check the program eproms , normally it’s very rare that they fail but to my surprise both eproms had pin 31 not connected internally!
Replacing eproms with good ones fixed the game completely.
Last think I did, was to change the DALLAS MCU battery since it was at 2.9V , very near to suicide.